| Yellow Ackie Monitor (Varanus acanthurus brachyurus) Family: Varanidae Origin: Northern & Western Australia Size: 16 – 24” Life Expectancy: 15 – 25 years Characteristics: Introduction: Ackie monitors are a dwarf monitor species that are becoming very popular in the UK. Life Cycle Enclosure: Bigger is always better when it comes to monitor enclosures. There are minimums that should be followed however. The enclosure should be twice as long as the monitor’s length and as wide as the monitor is long. So for adult Ackies the minimum size enclosure should be 4 feet long x 2 feet wide x 2 feet high. If you have room for a larger enclosure it will not go to waste. If you have the room you may go higher as Ackies are partly arboreal and will climb if given the opportunity. Ackies are very active and will put any available space to good use. Also the larger the enclosure the more available temperature and humidity gradients there will be for your Ackies to choose from. Remember that Ackies have a quick growth rate so plan for that large enclosure ahead of time. Temperatures and Humidity: Temperature: Perhaps the best thing you can do for any reptile is to provide as many different temperature gradients as possible. This will enable your monitor to be able to pick the exact temperature they require. A good range of gradients is 75-80 F on the cool side with a basking site of 130-150 F. Keep it a little lower for hatchlings around 120F. The basking site is only about the size of the Ackies body. Too small of an area can lead to burns from the monitor not being able to use the heat properly. Too large of an area will keep the enclosure too hot, resulting in death. Position a halogen or flood light above it directing the beam straight down. The halogens are probably the best source for heating. They operate more efficiently and are cheaper than special reptile heat lamps or ceramic heat emitters purchased from retail reptile stores. They also usually last much longer as well. Ideally the bulb should be between 45 and 75 watts depending on the height it is to be suspended from the basking site. Move them closer or farther away to achieve the recommended basking temperature. Another way would be to wire the bulbs into a dimmer and simply adjust the dimmer to the recommended temps. Do not simply throw in a 150 watt bulb thinking this will solve all your heat requirements. It will quickly dry out the air in the enclosure. You should be able to regulate the temperature in your monitor’s enclosure with just the one basking light and some vents. There is no conclusive evidence whether it is detrimental to use UV light for monitors. They have been raised by breeders who do use it and those who don't with no documented differences. If you want to use UV light you may but it's not necessary. Humidity: Ackies require moderate 40 - 60%. A hygrometer will help to monitor the humidity levels. Food & Water: In short, crickets, pinkie mice, superworms, mealworms, and waxworms. Crickets should make up the bulk of the diet especially for hatchlings. Mice should only be offered once a week. Other exotic foods are often offered as well. Meals should be supplemented with a vitamin D3 enriched mineral supplement nearly every feeding. There are two ways to ensure your Ackies are hydrated properly. One is to soak them weekly in warm water. The depth should be no higher than the shoulder, so their heads can be held above the water. This should not be done with babies. Rather put them in a container with soaking wet paper towels. Another way which is probably more natural is a heavy misting a few times a week. Regularly hydrating your Ackie will greatly aid in ridding the toes of those stuck sheds. Maintenance Substrate: Keep in mind that for monitor’s substrate is an important part of husbandry. The best substrate to use is plain old dirt. Some Ackie owners mix in a bit of sand as well trying to create a sandy loam. The best soil to use is the type you dig up yourself. It should be extracted from an area that is free of pesticide and fertilizer use. Agriculture fields are not a good source. Other than that it may be purchased in bag form from a garden center. However the black soil tends to dry out rather quickly. Make sure here as well that it contains no growing additives, usually the cheaper the better. Maintaining a level of moisture in the substrate is important for holding burrows as well as for insuring complete sheds. Not doing this could cause loss of toes or tails from retained dead skin. If you’re planning to use dirt/soil/sand as a substrate, it is best to feed your monitor in a separate feeding tub so it does not ingest the substrate, which can cause impaction. The easiest and cleanest looking of the substrates available is either reptile carpet. Reptile carpet can be easily cut to the size of the tank you want to use and thrown in the washing machine when it gets dirty (it’s best to have a spare piece to put in when one is being washed). |
