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| ♣ California Kingsnake ♣ |
| Submitted by: Lindsay Rose of Thompson, Manitoba, Canada |
Characteristics: California King snakes are a slender
bodied
colubrid. Reaching up to lengths of 5 feet, but more
commonly being around 4
to 4.5 feet and generally about 7 or 8 inch thick. They have
personalities that usually are bigger then themselves.
They can be aggressive
owners, their activeness and demeanor are what attract
them mostly to
this species. California King snakes are known to “musk”
when being
handled. This is a defense mechanism that releases a
pungent smell to deter
predators.
bodied
colubrid. Reaching up to lengths of 5 feet, but more
commonly being around 4
to 4.5 feet and generally about 7 or 8 inch thick. They have
personalities that usually are bigger then themselves.
They can be aggressive
owners, their activeness and demeanor are what attract
them mostly to
this species. California King snakes are known to “musk”
when being
handled. This is a defense mechanism that releases a
pungent smell to deter
predators.
Life Cycle: California Kings start out at about 9 inches long
and about
1 inch round. The length of time it takes them to grow to
adult size
is determined by their care, ie. how often they are fed, but
typically
adult sizes are reached in 4-5 years, 4-4.5 feet is typical,
under
optimum conditions If the snake is kept in ideal conditions,
without illness
or disease, is will typically live 15-20 years.
and about
1 inch round. The length of time it takes them to grow to
adult size
is determined by their care, ie. how often they are fed, but
typically
adult sizes are reached in 4-5 years, 4-4.5 feet is typical,
under
optimum conditions If the snake is kept in ideal conditions,
without illness
or disease, is will typically live 15-20 years.
Enclosure needs: The typical first time reptile owner,
generally starts
out with a small snake, generally no bigger then a
hatchling. A
hatchling requires nothing more then a large kitter keeper.
Anything too big
and the snake may become stressed out, refuse to eat, be
nervous and
bitty.
As the snake grows, The size of the enclosure can be
moved up.
Generally a 30G tank is plenty big for a 4.5 foot snake. It
provides plenty of
room to roam around.
Make sure to provide ample substrate if using Aspen so
that the snake
can burrow, they seem to enjoy this at any stage of their
life. Also
provide a hide at each end of their enclosure, this can be
as simple as a
card board box. The snake should be able to enter the hid,
and then
once it is in, when coiled up, be able to touch all the sides,
not so much
that it is scrunched into a tight ball.
generally starts
out with a small snake, generally no bigger then a
hatchling. A
hatchling requires nothing more then a large kitter keeper.
Anything too big
and the snake may become stressed out, refuse to eat, be
nervous and
bitty.
As the snake grows, The size of the enclosure can be
moved up.
Generally a 30G tank is plenty big for a 4.5 foot snake. It
provides plenty of
room to roam around.
Make sure to provide ample substrate if using Aspen so
that the snake
can burrow, they seem to enjoy this at any stage of their
life. Also
provide a hide at each end of their enclosure, this can be
as simple as a
card board box. The snake should be able to enter the hid,
and then
once it is in, when coiled up, be able to touch all the sides,
not so much
that it is scrunched into a tight ball.
Temperatures and Humidity: California kings require a heat
gradient,
which gives them the ability to choose if they want to be
warm or cool..
One side of the tank can be kept at room temperature, no
cooler then
75F and the warm end 85F.
These temperatures can be obtained by a under tank
heater, or heat
tape. But please make sure the temperature is monitored
by a reliable
thermometer. Also, regulating the heat output of the under
tank heater with
a rheostat is strongly suggested.
California Kings do not require any extra humidity needs,
keep the
water dish full of clean water and mist once or twice while
the snake is in
a shed cycle.
gradient,
which gives them the ability to choose if they want to be
warm or cool..
One side of the tank can be kept at room temperature, no
cooler then
75F and the warm end 85F.
These temperatures can be obtained by a under tank
heater, or heat
tape. But please make sure the temperature is monitored
by a reliable
thermometer. Also, regulating the heat output of the under
tank heater with
a rheostat is strongly suggested.
California Kings do not require any extra humidity needs,
keep the
water dish full of clean water and mist once or twice while
the snake is in
a shed cycle.
Substrate and Water Needs:Provide a water dish that
allows the snake to
coil and submerge completely, because of this and
because they like to
defecate in the water, it is necessary to change it daily.
For substrate aspen is a good option to use. Do not use
any hard woods,
such as Cedar or Pine, as the oils they emit are toxic to
snakes and
can cause drastic illnesses. Newsprint as well as paper
towel may also be
used, they make for quick and easy clean ups.
Diet: The rule of “thumb” for feeding king snakes is not to
feed
something that is over 1.5 times thicker then the thickest
part on the snake.
A hatchling will start out on pinkie mice, eating one every 5
days,
moving up gradually to the next sized mouse. Often, the
snake will be able
to take two of the same sized mice before moving up to the
next size.
When this is the case, move the feedings to every 7 days.
An adult king can take up to 3 very large mice every 10-14
days....
This is useful when trying to get the snake to gain more
weight on, mainly
for burmation. A typical diet for an adult would be 2 large
adult mice
every 10 days. A diet of less mice will help in keeping the
snake from
becoming obese, but, still provide the snake with enough
nutrients to
live more then well enough.
Some snakes may or may not feed while in shed. Some
people even
recommend not feeding a snake that is in shed as it *may*
damage the new skin
that is underneath the old.
allows the snake to
coil and submerge completely, because of this and
because they like to
defecate in the water, it is necessary to change it daily.
For substrate aspen is a good option to use. Do not use
any hard woods,
such as Cedar or Pine, as the oils they emit are toxic to
snakes and
can cause drastic illnesses. Newsprint as well as paper
towel may also be
used, they make for quick and easy clean ups.
Diet: The rule of “thumb” for feeding king snakes is not to
feed
something that is over 1.5 times thicker then the thickest
part on the snake.
A hatchling will start out on pinkie mice, eating one every 5
days,
moving up gradually to the next sized mouse. Often, the
snake will be able
to take two of the same sized mice before moving up to the
next size.
When this is the case, move the feedings to every 7 days.
An adult king can take up to 3 very large mice every 10-14
days....
This is useful when trying to get the snake to gain more
weight on, mainly
for burmation. A typical diet for an adult would be 2 large
adult mice
every 10 days. A diet of less mice will help in keeping the
snake from
becoming obese, but, still provide the snake with enough
nutrients to
live more then well enough.
Some snakes may or may not feed while in shed. Some
people even
recommend not feeding a snake that is in shed as it *may*
damage the new skin
that is underneath the old.
Maintenance: Keeping the enclosure clean is very
important. Spot checks
(taking out soiled bits of substrate) on a daily basis and
clean water
are a must. Doing a complete change of substrate is a must
at least
once every two weeks, taking out ALL the old substrate and
adding new.
The snake will coil and defecate in the water, so it is
important to
provide clean drinking water daily.
Breeding: Breeding of any animal should be thought of in
great detail.
What are you going to do with the hatchlings? Do you have
time to deal
with up to 25 more snakes? Do you have the patients to
deal with a
hatchling who is refusing food, having a bad shed? Will you
be able to
humanely execute a hatchling if the need arises? Do you
have access to
different food sources? A never ending resource for
pinkies? There are many
many more questions that should be asked before hand.
Acquiring enough experience with the species to feel
comfortable around
them, having knowledge of their “ways”and research
research research!!
I will not write a step by step procedure on breeding
California kings,
as that requires it's own topic in itself and does not belong
in the
general care. But, I will give ideas on some topics to
research.
Size and Weight, this is crucial, as breeding a female that is
to small
may cause egg binding and death!
Burmation, the period of cooling during winter months in
order for the
snakes to produce eggs and sperm. Research this topic
CAREFULLY as the
steps are crucial as not to harm your snake!
Egg incubation, proper humidity and temperatures are
crucial for the
survival of the eggs full term.
Picking out a healthy snake : Picking out a healthy king is
not a
difficult task. Make sure the eyes are clear, avoid buying a
snake that is
in a shed cycle. They will be attentive to their surroundings
when
being handled, flicking their tongues, trying to get away.
Look at the
belly scares, they should be smooth, no redness at all. The
vent should be
clear of mucus, redness, or anything thatthat looks abnormal
important. Spot checks
(taking out soiled bits of substrate) on a daily basis and
clean water
are a must. Doing a complete change of substrate is a must
at least
once every two weeks, taking out ALL the old substrate and
adding new.
The snake will coil and defecate in the water, so it is
important to
provide clean drinking water daily.
Breeding: Breeding of any animal should be thought of in
great detail.
What are you going to do with the hatchlings? Do you have
time to deal
with up to 25 more snakes? Do you have the patients to
deal with a
hatchling who is refusing food, having a bad shed? Will you
be able to
humanely execute a hatchling if the need arises? Do you
have access to
different food sources? A never ending resource for
pinkies? There are many
many more questions that should be asked before hand.
Acquiring enough experience with the species to feel
comfortable around
them, having knowledge of their “ways”and research
research research!!
I will not write a step by step procedure on breeding
California kings,
as that requires it's own topic in itself and does not belong
in the
general care. But, I will give ideas on some topics to
research.
Size and Weight, this is crucial, as breeding a female that is
to small
may cause egg binding and death!
Burmation, the period of cooling during winter months in
order for the
snakes to produce eggs and sperm. Research this topic
CAREFULLY as the
steps are crucial as not to harm your snake!
Egg incubation, proper humidity and temperatures are
crucial for the
survival of the eggs full term.
Picking out a healthy snake : Picking out a healthy king is
not a
difficult task. Make sure the eyes are clear, avoid buying a
snake that is
in a shed cycle. They will be attentive to their surroundings
when
being handled, flicking their tongues, trying to get away.
Look at the
belly scares, they should be smooth, no redness at all. The
vent should be
clear of mucus, redness, or anything thatthat looks abnormal
Species: Lampropeltis getula
californiae
California King snake
californiae
California King snake
