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| ♣ Cornsnakes ♣ |
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| FAMILY: Colubridae |
| ORIGIN: South Eastern U.S. and North Eastern Mexico |
| LIFE EXPECTANCY: 15 to 35 years |
HOUSING: The most important thing to consider when buying an
enclosure for your corn snake is that it is escape proof. It is amazing
how small a gap a corn snake can fit through. It is worth considering the
size a corn snake can reach into adulthood when considering housing
options for a hatchling. Hatchlings will happily live in a small enclosure;
however, they will grow to adult size within 2 to 3 years and at that
stage, will need a vivarium of around 3ft in length to allow them
enough room to move around freely. A corn snake is, by nature, a
rather shy creature and this is a main point to take into consideration
when furnishing the habitat. “Hides” should be provided that are large
enough for the snake to fit into but not too large that they do not feel
protected. If at all possible, there should be two hides in the vivarium;
one at the warm end and one at the cooler end. This will allow them to
move within temperature gradients and still feel secure. The most
important piece of “furniture” for the corn snake home is the water bowl.
This should be of solid construction and sturdy enough that a strong
corn snake is not able to topple it over. Fresh water should be provided
on a daily basis. Snakes are very particular about their water and even
if the water looks fresh, it may not seem that way to your corn snake. A
corn snake will defecate and urinate wherever it pleases. This should be
cleaned away as soon as it is spotted to avoid unpleasant smells and
unhygienic conditions for your snake. Having a substrate or layer
covering the floor of the enclosure will help to contain any mess as well
as providing an easy floor for the snake to move across. A good
substrate to use is aspen(NEVER use Cedar) although many prefer the
economy of kitchen towel or newspaper. Corn snakes like to roam
around in the evenings and this is when you will find them at their most
active. They are very agile and adept climbers.
enclosure for your corn snake is that it is escape proof. It is amazing
how small a gap a corn snake can fit through. It is worth considering the
size a corn snake can reach into adulthood when considering housing
options for a hatchling. Hatchlings will happily live in a small enclosure;
however, they will grow to adult size within 2 to 3 years and at that
stage, will need a vivarium of around 3ft in length to allow them
enough room to move around freely. A corn snake is, by nature, a
rather shy creature and this is a main point to take into consideration
when furnishing the habitat. “Hides” should be provided that are large
enough for the snake to fit into but not too large that they do not feel
protected. If at all possible, there should be two hides in the vivarium;
one at the warm end and one at the cooler end. This will allow them to
move within temperature gradients and still feel secure. The most
important piece of “furniture” for the corn snake home is the water bowl.
This should be of solid construction and sturdy enough that a strong
corn snake is not able to topple it over. Fresh water should be provided
on a daily basis. Snakes are very particular about their water and even
if the water looks fresh, it may not seem that way to your corn snake. A
corn snake will defecate and urinate wherever it pleases. This should be
cleaned away as soon as it is spotted to avoid unpleasant smells and
unhygienic conditions for your snake. Having a substrate or layer
covering the floor of the enclosure will help to contain any mess as well
as providing an easy floor for the snake to move across. A good
substrate to use is aspen(NEVER use Cedar) although many prefer the
economy of kitchen towel or newspaper. Corn snakes like to roam
around in the evenings and this is when you will find them at their most
active. They are very agile and adept climbers.
require a temperature gradient within their enclosure to enable to
thermo regulate in aid to their digestion. The temperature range
should be between 70F to 85F (20C to 30C). This is easily achieved
by use of the many heating and thermostat products available from pet
shops or online stores. One of the cheaper options is the use of a heat
mat. This should be placed underneath one end of the vivarium and
should measure one-third of the length of the floor base. These should
be monitored on a regular basis to avoid malfunction, as they have
been known to overheat. Other heating options are ceramic heating
devices. It is always advised that these and all heating devices be used
in conjunction with a good thermostat.
FEEDING AND DIET: The diet of corn snakes of all ages are mice of
varying sizes. A hatchling corn will eat one pinkie (new born mouse)
every five to seven days. This will increase to two pinkies at a time over
the course of a few months. When the snake is happily eating multiple
pinkies, they can be upgraded to a fuzzy (a slightly larger baby mouse
with hair). It is usually when the snake is about 6 months old that this
can be done. Once the snake is eating multiple fuzzies, then the move
can be made toward small mice. As the snake grows larger, so may the
size of the mouse being fed to it. As a rule of thumb, a corn snake is
able to eat a rodent that is 1.5 times the diameter of the thickest part of
the snake’s body. Once the snake is eating large mice it should only be
fed once every 7 days. Once the snake has eaten it should be left
alone for 24 to 48 hours before handling to allow it time to digest its
food.
of the snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses its appetite during of
the snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses its appetite during
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A few days later, the snake will
this time and spends more time in its water bowl. This phase will last
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A few days later, the snake will
slough. A healthy snake should slough in one whole piece, and place to
providing a rough area of bark or something similar will give it a good
place to rub its head to begin the shed. The shedding will occur in a
matter of minutes. A shed that is in small pieces is usually a good
indicator that there is not enough humidity. Always check the shed to
ensure that the whole skin has been removed, paying particular to be
attention to the eyes and tail tip. It is very common for the tip of the tail
to be left behind and can result in the tip eventually being lost if this
occurs over a period of time and the dead skin is not removed. Gently
rubbing it with water should remove this remaining piece of shed. Close
observation of your corn snake will soon enable you to spot any gives
possible changes in behaviour or health. If you do spot something that
veterinarian to seek professional advicegives you concern, it is always
recommended that you consult your veterinarian to seek professional
advice
thermo regulate in aid to their digestion. The temperature range
should be between 70F to 85F (20C to 30C). This is easily achieved
by use of the many heating and thermostat products available from pet
shops or online stores. One of the cheaper options is the use of a heat
mat. This should be placed underneath one end of the vivarium and
should measure one-third of the length of the floor base. These should
be monitored on a regular basis to avoid malfunction, as they have
been known to overheat. Other heating options are ceramic heating
devices. It is always advised that these and all heating devices be used
in conjunction with a good thermostat.
FEEDING AND DIET: The diet of corn snakes of all ages are mice of
varying sizes. A hatchling corn will eat one pinkie (new born mouse)
every five to seven days. This will increase to two pinkies at a time over
the course of a few months. When the snake is happily eating multiple
pinkies, they can be upgraded to a fuzzy (a slightly larger baby mouse
with hair). It is usually when the snake is about 6 months old that this
can be done. Once the snake is eating multiple fuzzies, then the move
can be made toward small mice. As the snake grows larger, so may the
size of the mouse being fed to it. As a rule of thumb, a corn snake is
able to eat a rodent that is 1.5 times the diameter of the thickest part of
the snake’s body. Once the snake is eating large mice it should only be
fed once every 7 days. Once the snake has eaten it should be left
alone for 24 to 48 hours before handling to allow it time to digest its
food.
of the snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses its appetite during of
the snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses its appetite during
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A few days later, the snake will
this time and spends more time in its water bowl. This phase will last
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A few days later, the snake will
slough. A healthy snake should slough in one whole piece, and place to
providing a rough area of bark or something similar will give it a good
place to rub its head to begin the shed. The shedding will occur in a
matter of minutes. A shed that is in small pieces is usually a good
indicator that there is not enough humidity. Always check the shed to
ensure that the whole skin has been removed, paying particular to be
attention to the eyes and tail tip. It is very common for the tip of the tail
to be left behind and can result in the tip eventually being lost if this
occurs over a period of time and the dead skin is not removed. Gently
rubbing it with water should remove this remaining piece of shed. Close
observation of your corn snake will soon enable you to spot any gives
possible changes in behaviour or health. If you do spot something that
veterinarian to seek professional advicegives you concern, it is always
recommended that you consult your veterinarian to seek professional
advice
| SIZE: 4 to 5 feet on average, although up to six feet has been recorded. |
| Species: Pantherophis guttatus guttatus, formerly Elaphe guttata guttata |
