 |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
♣ Royal Python ♣
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Species: Python regius
FAMILY: Pythonidae
ORIGIN: Eastern Africa, predominantly the
countries of Ghana, Togo, and Benin.
countries of Ghana, Togo, and Benin.
LIFE EXPECTANCY: 20-30 years, though
the oldest recorded royal reached 48 years
of age in captivity.
the oldest recorded royal reached 48 years
of age in captivity.
HOUSING: The recommended enclosure for
a royal python is a vivarium around half the
snakes length and 1.5 to 2 ft wide.
An ideal sized vivarium for a royal python is
3ft by 2ft. Height is not important, although
they will climb if given the chance. They tend
to be clumsy climbers and fall easily, so
make sure they cannot fall too far and injure
themselves.
The minimum vivarium size for a baby
royal python is 18 inches long by 12 inches
wide. For adults a vivarium that is 36 inches
by 24 inches would suffice.
a royal python is a vivarium around half the
snakes length and 1.5 to 2 ft wide.
An ideal sized vivarium for a royal python is
3ft by 2ft. Height is not important, although
they will climb if given the chance. They tend
to be clumsy climbers and fall easily, so
make sure they cannot fall too far and injure
themselves.
The minimum vivarium size for a baby
royal python is 18 inches long by 12 inches
wide. For adults a vivarium that is 36 inches
by 24 inches would suffice.
SIZE: Hatchlings range from 10 inches (25.4
cm) for runts to 17 inches (43.2 cm). Adults
range from 3 to 5 feet (.91 - 1.27 m),
although reports of royals reaching 6 feet is
not unheard of.
cm) for runts to 17 inches (43.2 cm). Adults
range from 3 to 5 feet (.91 - 1.27 m),
although reports of royals reaching 6 feet is
not unheard of.
INTRODUCTION: Royal pythons are a
terrestrial species and spend much of their
time on the ground in the savannas or
grasslands of west Africa.
terrestrial species and spend much of their
time on the ground in the savannas or
grasslands of west Africa.
TEMPERATURE: royal pythons need
relatively high temperatures to do well in
cativity.
in the snakes vivarium the ambient daytime
temperature should be 80-85(26.7-29.4'c)
also establish a temperature gradient to
allow the snakes to thermoregulate.
you can do this by creating a warmer basking
basking area.which should reach 90-95
'f(32.2-35'c) over one fourth to one third of
the total surfice area of the vivarium.
its critical that royals also have access to
coller ambient temperatures.
at night the ambient temperatures may drop
to 75-80'f(23.9-26.7'c) aslongs a heat
source remains available for basking
relatively high temperatures to do well in
cativity.
in the snakes vivarium the ambient daytime
temperature should be 80-85(26.7-29.4'c)
also establish a temperature gradient to
allow the snakes to thermoregulate.
you can do this by creating a warmer basking
basking area.which should reach 90-95
'f(32.2-35'c) over one fourth to one third of
the total surfice area of the vivarium.
its critical that royals also have access to
coller ambient temperatures.
at night the ambient temperatures may drop
to 75-80'f(23.9-26.7'c) aslongs a heat
source remains available for basking
HEALTH: As a snake grows, it sheds its outer
skin. The first sign that this is about to
happen is when it goes into the “blue” stage.
This is when the eyes appear a cloudy blue
colour and the overall appearance of the
snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses
its appetite during this time and spends more
time in its water bowl. This phase will last
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A
few days later, the snake will slough. A
healthy snake should slough in one whole
piece, and providing a rough area of bark or
something similar will give it a good place to
rub its head to begin the shed. The shedding
will occur in a matter of minutes. A shed that
is in small pieces is usually a good indicator
that there is not enough humidity.
Always check the shed to ensure that the
whole skin has been removed, paying
particular attention to the eyes and tail tip. It
is very common for the tip of the tail to be left
behind and can result in the tip eventually
being lost if this occurs over a period of time
and the dead skin is not removed. Gently
rubbing it with water should remove this
remaining piece of shed. Close observation
of your royal will soon enable you to spot any
possible changes in behaviour or health. If
you do spot something that gives you
concern, it is always recommended that you
consult your veterinarian to seek
professional advice
damaged.
skin. The first sign that this is about to
happen is when it goes into the “blue” stage.
This is when the eyes appear a cloudy blue
colour and the overall appearance of the
snake is dull. It may be that the snake loses
its appetite during this time and spends more
time in its water bowl. This phase will last
around 2 to 5 days and then it will clear. A
few days later, the snake will slough. A
healthy snake should slough in one whole
piece, and providing a rough area of bark or
something similar will give it a good place to
rub its head to begin the shed. The shedding
will occur in a matter of minutes. A shed that
is in small pieces is usually a good indicator
that there is not enough humidity.
Always check the shed to ensure that the
whole skin has been removed, paying
particular attention to the eyes and tail tip. It
is very common for the tip of the tail to be left
behind and can result in the tip eventually
being lost if this occurs over a period of time
and the dead skin is not removed. Gently
rubbing it with water should remove this
remaining piece of shed. Close observation
of your royal will soon enable you to spot any
possible changes in behaviour or health. If
you do spot something that gives you
concern, it is always recommended that you
consult your veterinarian to seek
professional advice
damaged.
HUMITY: One thing which commonly gets
over looked is the level of humidity in the
tank. Since Ball Pythons spend a lot of time
underground in burrows or in termite nests,
they are more sensitive to relative humidity.
I recommend the ambient humidity be at least
60%, and you may want to provide a hide
box which has a higher percent (70-80%).
Low humidity can cause incomplete
shedding, dehydration, and sometimes a lack
of appetite. To either add or remove
humidity, you can provide bigger or smaller
water bowls. You can restrict, but not stop,
air flow from the tank. You can use porous
substrates (i.e. mulch) that will hold some
moisture and mist the cage every so often. I
feel that if you provide a big water bowl with a
hole cut in the lid, the snake will use it as
another hide and soak/re-hydrate itself as
needed.
over looked is the level of humidity in the
tank. Since Ball Pythons spend a lot of time
underground in burrows or in termite nests,
they are more sensitive to relative humidity.
I recommend the ambient humidity be at least
60%, and you may want to provide a hide
box which has a higher percent (70-80%).
Low humidity can cause incomplete
shedding, dehydration, and sometimes a lack
of appetite. To either add or remove
humidity, you can provide bigger or smaller
water bowls. You can restrict, but not stop,
air flow from the tank. You can use porous
substrates (i.e. mulch) that will hold some
moisture and mist the cage every so often. I
feel that if you provide a big water bowl with a
hole cut in the lid, the snake will use it as
another hide and soak/re-hydrate itself as
needed.
FEEDING: feed your ball python an
appropriately sized rodent weekly. By
"appropriately sized"meaning prey items that
are no bigger around than the python at its
largest point. Ball pythons can eat rats from
the time they are young - starting off with rat
pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes &
moving up in size as the animal grows. Do
not handle your snake for at least a day after
feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation.
Ball pythons can be converted to feeding on
frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents . Never
feed live prey royal pythons. are well-known
for going on hunger strikes at certain times
throughout the year, particularly in the winter
months. Be prepared for the possibility of
your snake going off feed, and keep an
observant eye on the snake's overall
condition and body weight. This is typically
nothing to worry about with healthy, well
established pythons, although it can be
extremely frustrating to the keeper. If your
snake is healthy continue your husbandry
routine as usual, yet reduce the amount of
handling the snake receives to a minimum.
Offer your ball python food every 10-14 days
until interested in eating again, as the snake
will eventually "turn back on" and resume
feeding normally.
appropriately sized rodent weekly. By
"appropriately sized"meaning prey items that
are no bigger around than the python at its
largest point. Ball pythons can eat rats from
the time they are young - starting off with rat
pups or "crawlers" for younger snakes &
moving up in size as the animal grows. Do
not handle your snake for at least a day after
feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation.
Ball pythons can be converted to feeding on
frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents . Never
feed live prey royal pythons. are well-known
for going on hunger strikes at certain times
throughout the year, particularly in the winter
months. Be prepared for the possibility of
your snake going off feed, and keep an
observant eye on the snake's overall
condition and body weight. This is typically
nothing to worry about with healthy, well
established pythons, although it can be
extremely frustrating to the keeper. If your
snake is healthy continue your husbandry
routine as usual, yet reduce the amount of
handling the snake receives to a minimum.
Offer your ball python food every 10-14 days
until interested in eating again, as the snake
will eventually "turn back on" and resume
feeding normally.
